When I load my toz 35, the spring cocks and the pistol' goes 'click' but doesn't shoot. There is no markings on the bullet case from the firing pin either.
What I've noticed is when I open and load the pistol, the extractor (part 28 on the diagram) stays in the erect position, if this makes sense.... So I have to push it back with the bullet. Is this normal? I haven't shot toz in a long time, so I don't remember how it works.....
TOZ problem
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Re: TOZ problem
Does it goes click when you press the trigger or when you cock it?kaban56 wrote:When I load my toz 35, the spring cocks and the pistol' goes 'click' but doesn't shoot.
Check if the firing pin is broken. You'll have to disassemble most of the pistol, so if you're not comfortable doing that take it to a gunsmith.kaban56 wrote:There is no markings on the bullet case from the firing pin either.
No. When you open the gun, the extractor should tilt back about 30 degrees, so that it ejects the case.kaban56 wrote: What I've noticed is when I open and load the pistol, the extractor (part 28 on the diagram) stays in the erect position, if this makes sense.... So I have to push it back with the bullet. Is this normal?
A good clean and oil are probably in order.
If that doesn't fix it, you'll probably have something broken or not assembled correctly.
Hope this helps
-
RandomShotz
- Posts: 553
- Joined: Sat Dec 04, 2010 5:24 pm
- Location: Lexington, KY
I'm not sure what you mean when you describe the behaviour of the extractor. If the extractor is not popping back from the breach face, then maybe you are not fully cocking the gun. Are you sure the click is the striker sear and not just the set trigger? If the striker is not fully cocked, then you will feel spring pressure pushing the cocking lever back. If it is fully cocked, the cocking lever should pretty much swing free. Is it possible that you are not fully cocking the gun? Is there some crud or something keeping the lever from its full travel?
The gun is not terribly complicated - even if you lack confidence in your mechanical skills, you can at least take the grips and fore-end off and have a look. Working the mechanism in its skeletal state may give you an idea of what might be wrong.
If the striker spring is broken, it is not a big deal to replace - the gun is designed to make it a field repair. I think there are some instructions for that on this forum. Also, the spring itself can be replaced with a S&W revolver mainspring that's been cut down - available from Wolff guns springs. You can search the forum to find out which one or post again and I'll see if I have a record of which one I've purchased. They do occasionally break but more often they get tired because they are heavily pre-loaded so any TOZ 35 owner should know how to replace them.
Roger
The gun is not terribly complicated - even if you lack confidence in your mechanical skills, you can at least take the grips and fore-end off and have a look. Working the mechanism in its skeletal state may give you an idea of what might be wrong.
If the striker spring is broken, it is not a big deal to replace - the gun is designed to make it a field repair. I think there are some instructions for that on this forum. Also, the spring itself can be replaced with a S&W revolver mainspring that's been cut down - available from Wolff guns springs. You can search the forum to find out which one or post again and I'll see if I have a record of which one I've purchased. They do occasionally break but more often they get tired because they are heavily pre-loaded so any TOZ 35 owner should know how to replace them.
Roger
toz
Look at your manual or go to pilk guns, from what you are describing it sounds to me like you have a sear engagment problem, if you have screw 4 turned clockwise too much. The sear will not engage and the lever arm wont click when you pull it all the way back to eject the spent shell , try backing off screw 4 anticlockwise , or you may simply have a broken firing pin but i dought that if it was working when you last used it before storage .
cheers. S
Screw 1 Trigger Weight- Turning clockwise increases the weight.
Screw 2 Trigger Position - Loosen screw to rotate the entire trigger unit for side-on finger application onto the "finger pad" - this also allows forward/rearward adjustment of the trigger for longer or shorter reach.
Screw 3 Vertical Position - Loosen to set the height of the trigger.
Screw 4 Sear Engagement - Clockwise decreases the amount of engagement.
cheers. S
Screw 1 Trigger Weight- Turning clockwise increases the weight.
Screw 2 Trigger Position - Loosen screw to rotate the entire trigger unit for side-on finger application onto the "finger pad" - this also allows forward/rearward adjustment of the trigger for longer or shorter reach.
Screw 3 Vertical Position - Loosen to set the height of the trigger.
Screw 4 Sear Engagement - Clockwise decreases the amount of engagement.
You might be short stroking the action.
Be sure to throw the lever forward all of the way otherwise the lever forks don't catch the firing pin 'wings'.
I had this problem awhile back and couldn't for the life of me figure it out.
Long story short - be sure to throw the lever all the way forward and then all the way rearward.
Good luck.
Be sure to throw the lever forward all of the way otherwise the lever forks don't catch the firing pin 'wings'.
I had this problem awhile back and couldn't for the life of me figure it out.
Long story short - be sure to throw the lever all the way forward and then all the way rearward.
Good luck.