I have the trigger assembly drawing but is there an explanation of how and/or why the various screws are adjusted? I have not changed the setting for the weight of the trigger.
Also, what does it say when I string my shots vertically? Thanks for your answers.
JP
IZH-46M tripper adjustment
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Vertical stringing can be caused by a host of things. Inconsistent grip, grabbing at the grip (anticipation), or watching the black, are all popular.
What sort of sight picture are you using? Center, six o'clock, or sub-six (area) hold?
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spizh46.htm
Vertical stringing can be caused by a host of things. Inconsistent grip, grabbing at the grip (anticipation), or watching the black, are all popular.
What sort of sight picture are you using? Center, six o'clock, or sub-six (area) hold?
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- Location: Colorado
Two techniques for adjusting the IZH46M Trigger
I thought I'd share these two techniques for adjusting the IZH46M trigger.
Technique 1:
Tension adjust-(screw E) Rear Screw-Turn anti-clockwise until a few threads of the screw end protrude beyond block.
2nd stage- 2nd from rear-(screw b) Turn anti clockwise until there is no 2nd
stage and then back in until there is just a hint of 2nd stage.
Overtravel- 3rd from rear-(screw a) turn clockwise until it won't fire. Then
anti-clockwise until 1/8th turn after it does fire.
Take up- Front Screw-(screw c) Turn clockwise to reduce or anticlockwise to increase 1st stage travel.
Blade- The trigger blade can move fore and aft on a dovetail by slacking the
pinch screw (screw d), moving it to your preferred position and then
retightening.
Technique 2:
Turn counterclockwise, the screw in front of the trigger, screw C, in the
instruction manual drawing. Turn it back one turn. Now try to cock the pistol.
If this doesn't work, repeat this procedure with screw B, which is the second screw back behind the trigger.
If either of these allow the gun to cock, your trigger is out of adjustment.
If this works remove the grips by undoing the screws in the grip. You will see two holes through the receiver, behind the trigger, each about 3/8 inch in diameter. The bottom hole shows the sear point. The upper hole shows screw B.
Cock the pistol, you'll see the sear engage in the lower hole. Now adjust screw C until you obtain the desired trigger action.
If you aren't happy about the action, adjust screw B. But you may have to back off screw C to keep the sear engaged. Screw A, the screw immediately behind the trigger sets the post release trigger movement.
The trigger is simple, but adjustment is a bit tricky because of interaction
between the screws. If you can get the gun to cock, you might as well play with it; it might save you a service call.
Kudos to the original authors. I don't recall from where I got these into my notes.
Chris
EDIT : Added Attachment with graphics
Technique 1:
Tension adjust-(screw E) Rear Screw-Turn anti-clockwise until a few threads of the screw end protrude beyond block.
2nd stage- 2nd from rear-(screw b) Turn anti clockwise until there is no 2nd
stage and then back in until there is just a hint of 2nd stage.
Overtravel- 3rd from rear-(screw a) turn clockwise until it won't fire. Then
anti-clockwise until 1/8th turn after it does fire.
Take up- Front Screw-(screw c) Turn clockwise to reduce or anticlockwise to increase 1st stage travel.
Blade- The trigger blade can move fore and aft on a dovetail by slacking the
pinch screw (screw d), moving it to your preferred position and then
retightening.
Technique 2:
Turn counterclockwise, the screw in front of the trigger, screw C, in the
instruction manual drawing. Turn it back one turn. Now try to cock the pistol.
If this doesn't work, repeat this procedure with screw B, which is the second screw back behind the trigger.
If either of these allow the gun to cock, your trigger is out of adjustment.
If this works remove the grips by undoing the screws in the grip. You will see two holes through the receiver, behind the trigger, each about 3/8 inch in diameter. The bottom hole shows the sear point. The upper hole shows screw B.
Cock the pistol, you'll see the sear engage in the lower hole. Now adjust screw C until you obtain the desired trigger action.
If you aren't happy about the action, adjust screw B. But you may have to back off screw C to keep the sear engaged. Screw A, the screw immediately behind the trigger sets the post release trigger movement.
The trigger is simple, but adjustment is a bit tricky because of interaction
between the screws. If you can get the gun to cock, you might as well play with it; it might save you a service call.
Kudos to the original authors. I don't recall from where I got these into my notes.
Chris
EDIT : Added Attachment with graphics
- Attachments
-
- IZH46 Trigger Adjustment.pdf
- IZH46 Trigger Adjustment with graphcs
- (126.22 KiB) Downloaded 87 times
Last edited by Chris__Colorado on Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
IZH-46M trigger adjustment
Gwhite,
Thanks for your answer. I try to use a 6 o'clock hold but sometimes that turns into a sub-6 hold! I'll concentrate on maintaining the same grip pressure tonight as I DF and shoot 30 pellets.
Chris,
Thanks for the adjustment advice. I will try technique #1 and make small changes tonight during training.
JP
Thanks for your answer. I try to use a 6 o'clock hold but sometimes that turns into a sub-6 hold! I'll concentrate on maintaining the same grip pressure tonight as I DF and shoot 30 pellets.
Chris,
Thanks for the adjustment advice. I will try technique #1 and make small changes tonight during training.
JP
Another possibility for vertical stringing can be holding your breath. If you are completely stopping your breathing, holding it deliberately, give a try to pausing your breathing instead and see if it makes any difference. The heart can have a substantial influence on torso movement, and obviously the shoulder is dependent upon the torso for its own stability. Subtle effect, but enough to cause vertical stringing especially towards the latter part of a too-long hold.