One oof the members of our club is shooting a 10 mm on a 1911 frame
He has just started reloading and is using Starline brass
When he inspects the fired cases he finds that they have a small circular indentation about half way up from fhe base of the cartridge and about a third of the way around the case.
Does anyone have any idea what would cause this to happen or have
a similar experience.
Appreciate any info or comments.
Thank You
10 mm on 1911 frame brass porblem
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Who built the gun? My understanding is that if you put a different caliber barrel on a 1911 frame, the angle of the feed ramp needs to be changed. If this isnt done just right, you will have feeding/functioning problems. Dinged up brass is the least of your worries.
Another possible issue is some part of the chamber may not be supporting the case correctly.
Pictures would be nice.... Some very good gunsmiths on this board could probably tell you exactly what is going on.
Another possible issue is some part of the chamber may not be supporting the case correctly.
Pictures would be nice.... Some very good gunsmiths on this board could probably tell you exactly what is going on.
10mm 1911
A while back, Colt made a pistol called the Delta Elite. It was a 10mm built on a 1911 frame.
Since the 10mm is a much higher pressure cartridge, the recoil system was redesigned, incorporating a 2 spring recoil system.
This system really kicked out the brass!
My guess is that the brass is hitting the slide on the way out. Kinda hard to pinpoint exactly. Once you do, you may be able to relief cut at that point.
If you plan to reload, remember that the case will always be weaker at this dimple point. Pay attention to the case and it will tell you when to load or discard.
Brass is a lot cheap than a new hand.
Since the 10mm is a much higher pressure cartridge, the recoil system was redesigned, incorporating a 2 spring recoil system.
This system really kicked out the brass!
My guess is that the brass is hitting the slide on the way out. Kinda hard to pinpoint exactly. Once you do, you may be able to relief cut at that point.
If you plan to reload, remember that the case will always be weaker at this dimple point. Pay attention to the case and it will tell you when to load or discard.
Brass is a lot cheap than a new hand.
Get them in the x-ring.
Perfect practice makes perfect.
Perfect practice makes perfect.
Without a picture of the brass I'm just speculating but watch this video, it's not a 1911 but at about 50 seconds it shows the slide hitting the case on the way out. The case starts out in a counterclockwise rotation and hits the slide and actually begins rotating clockwise. (I think the text in the vid has this reversed)
What spring weight? and I'll ask this question again too, who built the gun? If the ejection port is a standard port and not lowered and flared you will have problems.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... i_jXDdzooo
What spring weight? and I'll ask this question again too, who built the gun? If the ejection port is a standard port and not lowered and flared you will have problems.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... i_jXDdzooo
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