Getting no-where fast

TommyH · Post by **TommyH** » Fri Aug 09, 2013 1:04 pm

Hi

Can anyone please tell me where in the UK I can get the 'in-between' bits that go from my newly purchased - used scuba tank 232 bar with what I believe to be a DIN valve, (I am confused about what it is as a professional north sea diver is telling me that it is a DIN valve and a shop owner that sells airgun accessories is telling me it is an A valve) to my PCP cylinder so that I can start using my Morini again which hasn't seen the light of day for 2 weeks due to no air.

I enclose an image of the tank's valve

Blessed be to anyone who can help

TommyH

Tycho · Post by **Tycho** » Fri Aug 09, 2013 1:13 pm

That is an INT valve, common for Scuba tanks. Easiest way is to get a DIN-INT-adapter where you can screw the DIN into the yoke.

Silvershooter · Post by **Silvershooter** » Fri Aug 09, 2013 1:32 pm

This is the one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scuba-diving- ... 1c34bffb44

GBP 6 on fleebay

David Levene · Post by **David Levene** » Fri Aug 09, 2013 1:40 pm

Silvershooter wrote:This is the one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scuba-diving- ... 1c34bffb44

GBP 6 on fleebay

I'm sorry but that most certainly is NOT the one. That one converts a DIN valve to an A valve, not the other way around.

David Levene · Post by **David Levene** » Fri Aug 09, 2013 1:47 pm

This is the one you want.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yoke-Clamp-To ... 878wt_1208

Silvershooter · Post by **Silvershooter** » Fri Aug 09, 2013 2:38 pm

David - Apologies, thanks for correcting.

Also a David

TommyH · Post by **TommyH** » Sat Aug 10, 2013 4:10 am

Thanks David Levene for the link

When I attach that to my scuba tank, my diver friend is saying that I would need a 'regulator' otherwise my PCP cylinder would 'fill too quickly', also, I've seen other set-ups that use an air hose with an anti whip valve (I'm really in strange territory now and want to make sure I'm on the right track before I make my purchases).

Thanks

TommyH

David Levene · Post by **David Levene** » Sat Aug 10, 2013 4:36 am

TommyH wrote:When I attach that to my scuba tank, my diver friend is saying that I would need a 'regulator' otherwise my PCP cylinder would 'fill too quickly'

No it won't, provided that you only open the valve slightly.

That adaptor will convert your A valve to a DIN thread. You don't need anything else: your Morini adaptor will just screw straight in and your cylinder screws on to that.

Rutty · Post by **Rutty** » Sat Aug 10, 2013 8:00 am

TommyH,

When I attach that to my scuba tank, my diver friend is saying that I would need a 'regulator' otherwise my PCP cylinder would 'fill too quickly', also, I've seen other set-ups that use an air hose with an anti whip valve (I'm really in strange territory now and want to make sure I'm on the right track before I make my purchases).

One "issue" with the valve you currently have is that the tank will have to be tested\inspected every 30 months. Now you diver friend is correct that it is better to have a restrictor in place and this is incorporated in a "surface valve": http://www.midlanddiving.com/airgun-c ... -gun-valve

http://www.bestfittings.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=286

A further advantage of the surface valve is that you now have another gauge as a check and the tank will only require an inspection every 60 months.

Good idea to phone one of the firms above and discuss before you purchase.

Rutty

TommyH · Post by **TommyH** » Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:18 am

Many thanks all, I feel now that I am getting somewhere!

TommyH

RobStubbs · Post by **RobStubbs** » Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:26 am

TommyH wrote:Thanks David Levene for the link

When I attach that to my scuba tank, my diver friend is saying that I would need a 'regulator' otherwise my PCP cylinder would 'fill too quickly', also, I've seen other set-ups that use an air hose with an anti whip valve (I'm really in strange territory now and want to make sure I'm on the right track before I make my purchases).

Thanks

TommyH

That's not really true, you just slowly open the valve and increase the pressure. You can buy a regulator but its certainly not essential. If you ever go to a comp where the fill your cylinders you'll find they don't have anything - not even in Germany.

Rob.

TommyH · Post by **TommyH** » Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:29 am

That's not really true, you just slowly open the valve and increase the pressure. You can buy a regulator but its certainly not essential. If you ever go to a comp where the fill your cylinders you'll find they don't have anything - not even in Germany.

That's interesting as I've recently sourced a 'surface valve' costing £70 - not cheap especially if I can get away without using one.

TommyH

David Levene · Post by **David Levene** » Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:50 am

TommyH wrote: That's interesting as I've recently sourced a 'surface valve' costing £70 - not cheap especially if I can get away without using one.

As your tank is newly certified why don't you just buy the cheap adaptor I suggested earlier and then get the valve changed at your inspection in about 30 months time.

I hate to say it but if you'd taken my previous advice (given twice) and bought a tank with a 232bar din valve and gauge then you wouldn't have been having these problems now.

TommyH · Post by **TommyH** » Mon Aug 12, 2013 12:19 pm

I hate to say it but if you'd taken my previous advice (given twice) and bought a tank with a 232bar din valve and gauge then you wouldn't have been having these problems now.

Hi David

I should have said that I purchased the 'yoke clamp to DIN adapter' using the link you provided, instead I said: "Many thanks all, I feel now that I am getting somewhere!" I didn't want to be specific because quite a few people were kind enough to offer help

The person who I bought the tank off told me when I asked the question: "the tank has a 232bar din valve on it" before I bid for it, I did feel like sending it back when I realised it was not what I was expecting, but instead decided to persist with what I had. To buy a tank with a gauge was like looking for gold dust as a lot of the sellers would not post, this one would.

Anyway, I am expecting my yoke clamp to DIN adapter to arrive tomorrow, then I'll finally be able to get underway. Once again, thanks all for your help.

TommyH

TommyH · Post by **TommyH** » Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:09 pm

Well, my eagerly awaited yoke clamp to DIN adapter arrived, I put it on my scuba tank, connected my AP's adapter to that, then screwed one of my PCP cylinders on. I then very slowly started to release the tank valve and wow - great! the needle on the cylinder's pressure gauge started to rise. I let it get to around '175 Bar' then securely shut the tank valve off - why 175 Bar? because that is what the dealer did where I picked my Morini up from when I got the 2 brand new cylinders that came with the AP topped for the very first time (must be something to do with the seals I thought). I then topped the second cylinder up with just as much excitement as the first.

Some of you have done this hundreds or thousands of times over, for me it was my first time and as you know if you've been following this episode, it wasn't straight forward for me due to a seller who was economical with the truth when I asked him a question.

Thanks David Levene for the link which has got me going again.

TommyH

Rover · Post by **Rover** » Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:08 pm

Your dealer probably put in 175BAR because that's all the pressure that was in his tank.

You can safely go well beyond that to 232BAR if you have that much pressure in your tank (you probably won't). Not much to get excited about, though; all it does is increase the number of shots between fills (not of much importance).

Just slowly open the tank valve a good half turn and the pressure in the tank and in your cylinder will equalize....you really can't screw up.

Have fun!

David Levene · Post by **David Levene** » Thu Aug 15, 2013 1:05 am

Glad that you're now up and running.

Not sure why the dealer only put 175bar in unless, as Rover suggested, that was all he had in his tank.

Can't think of any reason why you shouldn't go to the 200bar recommended by Morini, although that 175bar should give you way more than a match before the gun's lock-out catch works.

TommyH · Post by **TommyH** » Thu Aug 15, 2013 3:59 am

I'll go to 200 bar next time I refill, thanks

TommyH

Rover · Post by **Rover** » Thu Aug 15, 2013 12:41 pm

Don't concern yourself with how much is going into your cylinder. You only need to equalize tank and cylinder. The tank doesn't hold more than the cylinder can safely take and probably less.

Rutty · Post by **Rutty** » Fri Aug 16, 2013 3:02 am

Rover,

Don't concern yourself with how much is going into your cylinder. You only need to equalize tank and cylinder. The tank doesn't hold more than the cylinder can safely take and probably less.

That is misleading and could be potentially dangerous. It's fine if you are filling from your own tank all the time, but clubs may have 300bar cylinders not just 200/232bar. It is essential that you monitor the fill pressure on either the tank or cylinder gauge.

Rutty