I have finally managed to get my Scatt system out of it's box having had it for about a month.
My question is, what is the easiest way of getting the calibration shot into the inner ring without adjusting the sights, which I do not want to alter unless I have to.
Should I put a shim under the mounting bracket, or is there an easier way of doing it
Scatt Calibration
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
Scatt Calibration
Gary
On a straight profile barrel or air cylinder, there should be no need for a shim or to adjust your sights. It is not necessary to have the calibration shot exactly in the center. This is sometimes a source of confusion. Anywhere inside the inner ring is sufficient.
That being said there are a few situations where the system will not align properly with the target:
1. If the target is too close to the sensor (min. 4-5 meters) the sensor will be pointed too low.
2. If the v-block is installed backwards the sensor will point too low.
3. If the barrel is tapered toward the muzzle the sensor will likely point too high
4. if the sensor is mounted on a rifle barrel near the muzzle (Anschuetz especially) which has a reverse taper the sensor will point too low.
5. Make sure both sets of emitters top and bottom of the target are visible to the sensor.
Let me know how it goes.
Marcus
On a straight profile barrel or air cylinder, there should be no need for a shim or to adjust your sights. It is not necessary to have the calibration shot exactly in the center. This is sometimes a source of confusion. Anywhere inside the inner ring is sufficient.
That being said there are a few situations where the system will not align properly with the target:
1. If the target is too close to the sensor (min. 4-5 meters) the sensor will be pointed too low.
2. If the v-block is installed backwards the sensor will point too low.
3. If the barrel is tapered toward the muzzle the sensor will likely point too high
4. if the sensor is mounted on a rifle barrel near the muzzle (Anschuetz especially) which has a reverse taper the sensor will point too low.
5. Make sure both sets of emitters top and bottom of the target are visible to the sensor.
Let me know how it goes.
Marcus
As Marcus says, with the new scatt USB, you don't need to get the shot in the middle of the ring, it will calibrate itself. Go through the calibration process as though it were and see what the shot records are like.
On the older scatt models the sensor on the gun adjusts with an allen key to get it pointing in the right direction but even with that, you don't need it pointing spot on, you can move the shots on screen to coincide with those on the paper.
Rob.
On the older scatt models the sensor on the gun adjusts with an allen key to get it pointing in the right direction but even with that, you don't need it pointing spot on, you can move the shots on screen to coincide with those on the paper.
Rob.
Thanks for the quick reply Guys,
In regards to the comments Marcus has made, the distance that I am from the target is about 4.7 meters which from what he is saying is probably a bit to close so I will try and increase it a bit by shooting from the kitchen. (hope the wife doesn,t complain too much)
Also I am using an Anschutz and I have mounted the sensor as close as possible to the front sight, under the assumption that being close to the end of the barrel being the best position. Please correct me if I am wrong.
I am using the USB version that has no adjustment on the mounting block, also Marcus what do you mean by both sensors being visible, do you mean that both emitters should be lit up, as I think there was only one lit on the top
In regards to the comments Marcus has made, the distance that I am from the target is about 4.7 meters which from what he is saying is probably a bit to close so I will try and increase it a bit by shooting from the kitchen. (hope the wife doesn,t complain too much)
Also I am using an Anschutz and I have mounted the sensor as close as possible to the front sight, under the assumption that being close to the end of the barrel being the best position. Please correct me if I am wrong.
I am using the USB version that has no adjustment on the mounting block, also Marcus what do you mean by both sensors being visible, do you mean that both emitters should be lit up, as I think there was only one lit on the top
I mean that it will accomodate for the fact that the shot fall is not coincident with the scatt record. I can't recall exactly the cal process I'm afraid, I just know it works because that's what we do swapping between users and guns at our squad coaching sessions - I normally drive the scatt for the shooters.GaryD wrote:Hi Rob, what do you mean by it will calibrate itselfRobStubbs wrote:As Marcus says, with the new scatt USB, you don't need to get the shot in the middle of the ring, it will calibrate itself.
Rob.
My home scatt is an old version so it's a little different.
Rob.
Gary,
The emitters are the four little IR diodes on the top and bottom of the target. There are bigger diodes in the center of the top and bottom of the target. With recent versions of the software the top light turns red during calibration mode. The bottom light does not come on during calibration. It is used for sport pistol rapid fire and other timed event stages.
The only reason I mention it is that once a person had problems that were impossible to solve over the phone. When I mentioned the emitters on the top and bottom he said he only had them on the bottom! What had happened was during shipping the inner plate had slid up covering the top set of emitters. Once that was positioned properly the scatt worked perfectly.
As far as positioning the sensor, it does not matter if it is near the end of the barrel or closer to the forend. As long as it can "see" the target.
With the Anschuetz just make sure it is not on the tapered part but rather on the straight section of the barrel.
The software assumes that the calibration shot was aimed at and hit the middle of the target. This is a first "guess" at sighting in the scatt sensor. For example, if you actually fire the shot slightly to the left during the calibration, the first sighting shot at the virtual target will appear right of the aim point.
Marcus
The emitters are the four little IR diodes on the top and bottom of the target. There are bigger diodes in the center of the top and bottom of the target. With recent versions of the software the top light turns red during calibration mode. The bottom light does not come on during calibration. It is used for sport pistol rapid fire and other timed event stages.
The only reason I mention it is that once a person had problems that were impossible to solve over the phone. When I mentioned the emitters on the top and bottom he said he only had them on the bottom! What had happened was during shipping the inner plate had slid up covering the top set of emitters. Once that was positioned properly the scatt worked perfectly.
As far as positioning the sensor, it does not matter if it is near the end of the barrel or closer to the forend. As long as it can "see" the target.
With the Anschuetz just make sure it is not on the tapered part but rather on the straight section of the barrel.
The software assumes that the calibration shot was aimed at and hit the middle of the target. This is a first "guess" at sighting in the scatt sensor. For example, if you actually fire the shot slightly to the left during the calibration, the first sighting shot at the virtual target will appear right of the aim point.
Marcus
Just to clarify something.
Is the shot hitting the trace screen near the target or are you in "Zero Mode"?
If the shot is anywhere inside the "Zero Mode" circle, the unit is OK.
If the shot is registering on the target but not in the inner. That is, if you shoot a group they are all close to each other but not in the centre then you just need to "move" the group to the inner.
Click and hold the mouse over the "best centre" of the group, hold and drag the little circle that should appear onto the middle of the target.
I have mentioned this just in case GaryD and Marcus are unclear about which screen GaryD is on.
Is the shot hitting the trace screen near the target or are you in "Zero Mode"?
If the shot is anywhere inside the "Zero Mode" circle, the unit is OK.
If the shot is registering on the target but not in the inner. That is, if you shoot a group they are all close to each other but not in the centre then you just need to "move" the group to the inner.
Click and hold the mouse over the "best centre" of the group, hold and drag the little circle that should appear onto the middle of the target.
I have mentioned this just in case GaryD and Marcus are unclear about which screen GaryD is on.
Hi Guys,
I finally managed to get the Scatt out of the box and have another go at it.
The picture below shows the calibration screen and the position of the shot on it.
RossM said, Is the shot hitting the trace screen near the target or are you in "Zero Mode"?
If the shot is anywhere inside the "Zero Mode" circle, the unit is OK
I wonder if he would consider this to be an acceptable calibration shot
I finally managed to get the Scatt out of the box and have another go at it.
The picture below shows the calibration screen and the position of the shot on it.
RossM said, Is the shot hitting the trace screen near the target or are you in "Zero Mode"?
If the shot is anywhere inside the "Zero Mode" circle, the unit is OK
I wonder if he would consider this to be an acceptable calibration shot
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bluetentacle
- Posts: 139
- Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2010 12:38 am
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
There must be a reason why SCATT recommends that the calibration shot lands inside the small circle. This probably indicates that the bullseye is close to the sensor's optical center, which would minimize optical distortion and maximize accuracy.
To get the shot inside the small circle, try rotating the sensor along the barrel.
If the shot is printing low or high, try shimming the sensor body and the dovetail of the clamping unit with a thin sheet of paper, either at the back of the mounting surface (to bring the POI up), or the front (to bring the POI down):
I don't know if this makes a significant difference, but I do know that this has brought my calibration shots within the small circle as directed in the manual, and I'd rather follow directions than not.
To get the shot inside the small circle, try rotating the sensor along the barrel.
If the shot is printing low or high, try shimming the sensor body and the dovetail of the clamping unit with a thin sheet of paper, either at the back of the mounting surface (to bring the POI up), or the front (to bring the POI down):
I don't know if this makes a significant difference, but I do know that this has brought my calibration shots within the small circle as directed in the manual, and I'd rather follow directions than not.
You drag the shot in the sighting series, and once happy switch to match.GaryD wrote:Rob said, To me that looks fine, and clicking the shot and dragging it should be all you need to do.
Hi Rob,
Can you drag the shot to the centre on the calibration screen, or does it have do be done elsewhere.
Gary
Rob.