Help: Steyr LP10 dri-fire becomes live fire

miacdc · Post by **miacdc** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 2:40 pm

Today my shooting group was getting lousy. I short up on all proper technique. Grouping is still lousy.

I decided to do some dry-fire on the range. But "BANG" ! My dry-fire has become live fire!! One more dry-fire, close lever lightly, "Bang", it is still live fire !

What are the most common cause of this?

Richard H · Post by **Richard H** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 3:05 pm

Have you recently changed any trigger settings? That is a common cause of malfunctions and the first place I'd tend to look.

Jack Milchanowski · Post by **Jack Milchanowski** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 3:37 pm

Miacdc
I had a similar problem a few weeks ago with my LP-10E. I cocked the pistol and did not lower the cocking lever all the way down so I could dry fire. It expelled air and got my attention. It continued to do the same when trying to dry fire after pulling the cocking lever up all the way and then lowering it without closing it as for live fire.

It would live fire a pellet normally.

I took the grip off and found the problem. Parts 15, 16, and 17 all came out on the table. There is a cam which moves when you cock the pistol. It rotates around a bushing. This bushing which looked to me to have been a press fit into the pistol frame sheared off. It might have been a machined piece of the frame; I could not tell. The bushing has no part number as it was part of the frame. The cam was fine as was the spring. The broken bushing would not allow the cam to do the job it was supposed to do.

Our host Scott Pilkington fixed it right away for me and it has worked normally since.

I now only dry fire without cocking the pistol and just have the solenoid click.

I do not know 100% if the LP-10 is exactly the same or not. I bet it is though.

I attached two images to show the cam, bushing with the screw in it and the area on the frame where it belongs.

Come see us in the woods.
Jack

miacdc · Post by **miacdc** » Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:05 pm

Thank you Jack for the picture.

That is the exact problem I had, 15/16/17 loose.

Tighten the pieces, and the dry-fire is no longer live fire.

By the way, how is your sound dampening paint business. Does it work as well as advertised?

Jack Milchanowski · Post by **Jack Milchanowski** » Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:10 pm

Glad that you found the problem and that yours was just loose and the bushing is intact! I was set up to dry fire in the house. When mine expelled air I thought my wife was going to give birth again!

The paint did a great job on my Gehman Pellet trap and on my metal 22 trap. Very quiet. With the AP making more noise than the pellet hitting the metal at the back of the trap.

I painted the backs of the target backstops at the Shooting Stars Pistol Club. I was not satisfied with the results there. I have only put one coat on them. More should help. Their backstop wraps around itself at the bottom to try and catch pellets. I could not apply it to the very back of that curved portion.

My main purpose of using the sound deadening paint was so I could shoot my FP in my barn. We have a gentleman's agreement in the area I live in not to shoot firearms. I admit I have been trying to shoot my FP without everyone's knowledge of it. Everyone but me shoots snakes out here all the time and sometimes other varmits. I collect the snakes, photograph them, and let them go.

Jack

Dev · Post by **Dev** » Fri Aug 13, 2010 2:28 am

miacdc wrote:Today my shooting group was getting lousy. I short up on all proper technique. Grouping is still lousy.

I decided to do some dry-fire on the range. But "BANG" ! My dry-fire has become live fire!! One more dry-fire, close lever lightly, "Bang", it is still live fire !

What are the most common cause of this?

Hi,

This is what happens with my pistol also. From what I understood from the manual was not to close the loading gate (errr might not be the right term) fully. I have been training like this for several months. I will check if the same is true for my pistol...parts 16/17/etc. being loose.

Regards,

Dev

mhkhung · Post by **mhkhung** » Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:22 am

Just happened to me last evening when practicing.. The screw and the spring popped off and dry fire became live (good that the parts were still trapped between the frame and the grip..)

mhkhung · Post by **mhkhung** » Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:23 am

Just happened to me last evening when practicing.. The screw and the spring popped off and dry fire became live (good that the parts were still trapped between the frame and the grip..)

Bob-Riegl · Post by **Bob-Riegl** » Tue Oct 05, 2010 4:39 pm

Excuse my apparent ignorance but I dry fire my LP-10 and I have not had one "live Fire." You said you close the lever tightly---well---DUH!!!!----you are NOT supposed to close the lever tightly----NOT AT ALL just return the lever to before it closes----NOW try dry-firing---unless your LP-10 is defective you SHOULD NOT get a "Live Fire." "Doc"

Richard H · Post by **Richard H** » Tue Oct 05, 2010 5:16 pm

Bob-Riegl wrote:Excuse my apparent ignorance but I dry fire my LP-10 and I have not had one "live Fire." You said you close the lever tightly---well---DUH!!!!----you are NOT supposed to close the lever tightly----NOT AT ALL just return the lever to before it closes----NOW try dry-firing---unless your LP-10 is defective you SHOULD NOT get a "Live Fire." "Doc"

Bob I suggest you read the thread, there were actual lose parts that caused it to fire while the lever was in the dry-fire position which most people would term as slightly or partially closed

mhkhung · Post by **mhkhung** » Tue Oct 05, 2010 7:52 pm

The screw wouldn't go back in properly.. the threads is way too short and must have worn out the socket..

Time to call service..

miacdc · Post by **miacdc** » Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:13 pm

Hello Mkhung, not quite familiar with that trigger on you LP-10. Is that the new trigger on the newest LP-10 or you bought it from some where else?

mhkhung · Post by **mhkhung** » Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:16 pm

miacdc wrote:Hello Mkhung, not quite familiar with that trigger on you LP-10. Is that the new trigger on the newest LP-10 or you bought it from some where else?

That's the stock LP-10E trigger..

jipe · Post by **jipe** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 1:33 am

This problem seems specific to the new LP10E ?

Jack Milchanowski · Post by **Jack Milchanowski** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 5:46 am

mhkhung

It seems this might be a problem for the LP10E. Your picture of the damage is the exact same as mine. The bushing that was either press fit into the pistol frame or machined when the frame was made is threaded and it is what sheared. I see that it is still threaded around the screw as mine was. Pilkington took care of my repair and all has been well since.

Come see us in the woods.
Jack

mhkhung · Post by **mhkhung** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 9:09 am

Jack Milchanowski wrote:mhkhung

It seems this might be a problem for the LP10E. Your picture of the damage is the exact same as mine. The bushing that was either press fit into the pistol frame or machined when the frame was made is threaded and it is what sheared. I see that it is still threaded around the screw as mine was. Pilkington took care of my repair and all has been well since.

Come see us in the woods.
Jack

Do you know how Pilkington fixes it? I am hoping I won't need to send the LP10E across border from Canada and deal with customs unless that's my best option..

Jack Milchanowski · Post by **Jack Milchanowski** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 8:54 pm

mhkhung

The short answer is, no.

I love making things but I have learned over the years that I am a terrible plumber and I have no expertise with workings of the air pistol. It can't be that complicated, however, I saw when it was returned that the screw was through the bushing and the mechanism worked. I did not try to undo the screw and see if the bushing is fixed somehow to the frame or if the screw is longer. I just know that it works normally again and I hope it doesn't happen again.

Jack

pilk@home · Post by **pilk@home** » Thu Oct 07, 2010 12:43 pm

This is an early LP10E problem. Newer frames are a bit stronger in this area.

We need the frame here to fix it. You can keep the barrel, stocks, sights,

If you are in Canada, it maybe requires the same hassle as sending the whole gun.

A good machinists could fix it as well, we put a threaded bushing in place of the orginal threads, and then mill it back out for clearance.

new-lp10e-user · Post by **new-lp10e-user** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 4:11 pm

Hi Pilk@home,

Could you please elaborate? I'm not sure i understood what you meant by "put a threaded bushing in place of the original threads"

Did you mean "put a threaded bushing in place of the original bushing? If so, could you post a picture of the new part? Or describe in a few words what it would look like?

Thanks a million in advance.

-A

TargetTalk

Help: Steyr LP10 dri-fire becomes live fire

Help: Steyr LP10 dri-fire becomes live fire

Re: Help: Steyr LP10 dri-fire becomes live fire